The Southernmost City of Tuscany
Travel back in time to this medieval city & marvel in its rich architecture, art and religious history.
Genevieve Norris 17/11/2021
- Where? Southern Tuscany, Italy
- When? September – October / April – June
- How? Car/ Train (2hr from Florence)
Guarded by gothic walls with menacing archways, the city of Siena sits proudly at the peak of one of Tuscany’s iconic rolling hills – with scenic views, medieval architecture, delicious food and opulent art, this medieval paradise is a must-see visit on any Tuscan itinerary.
Notable for its annual horse race, the Palio di Siena, which takes place in both July and August, Siena revels in a history marked by tradition and culture. The race itself orbits the Piazza del Campo, a beautiful square lined by cafes and restaurants, arching around the Palazzo Pubblico and the Torre del Mangia. Here you can bask in the sun, people watch whilst sipping a macchiato and indulge in a variety of traditional Sienese sweets.
Weaving through the labyrinth streets of Siena, there is a vibrant, yet modest atmosphere – unlike the London-like buzz of Florence, Siena is rippled with quiet side-streets and secluded spaces. This fairytale city will have you wondering whether you’re in a dream, drawing you into a magical world that you won’t want to wake up from.
Sites & Attractions
- Piazza del Campo
Sunken into the sloping Sienese landscape, cobbled pathways lead you towards the pit of the Piazza del Campo. This beautiful pre-13th century square occupies a vast semi-circular space, bordered by restaurants and cafes galore. Arriving in Siena at 9:30am, we made our way towards the Piazza, ready to quench our caffeine cravings – eventually settling on a cafe, we drank coffee in the warmth of the late October morning sun and cherished the peace in the pre-crowd air. If you enjoy sitting amongst locals and watching a city awaken, then I highly recommend an early start – it’s the perfect opportunity to experience the city without the distractions and chaos of tourism.
2. Fonte Gaia
This decorated fountain rests near the top end of the Piazza del Campo, facing the Palazzo Pubblico. Engraved with biblical references such as the story of Genesis, the fountain pays tribute to Siena’s prevalent religious history. Fonte Gaia appears to have attracted more than just tourists, and can be easily spotted by the cult of pigeons who have taken a liking to this beautiful water hole (although I’m sure its architect, Jacopo della Quercia didn’t intend to construct a pigeon sanctuary & spa).
3. Torre del Mangia
- How Much? €10 (children under 11 go free)
- Steps? 400
Our day trip to Siena suffered an unfortunate predicament, the closure of the Torre del Mangia. One of my self-set challenges on our Tuscan tour, was to climb every tower in every city, so you can imagine my disappointment. Despite my own bad luck, the Torre is usually open for visitors, and boasts beautiful views of the city and the surrounding landscape – it is an impressive structure and an unmissable feature of Siena’s skyline, definitely worth the climb if you get the opportunity. If you’re staying in the city for a few nights, then make sure to book evening tickets for a magical sunset view.
4. Palazzo Pubblico
- How Much? €20 for an all inclusive ticket for the Torre del Mangia, Museo Civico and Museum Santa Maria della Scala
- Museo Civico: €9
Despite the closure of the tower, I purchased a ticket for the Museo Civico from the ticket office inside the Palazzo courtyard, the Cortile del Podestà. Much to my luck, the museum hosts its own private view of the surrounding countryside, gorgeous greenery, cobbled rooftops and distant hills. Inside the museum, you’ll be able to gaze at delicately painted ceilings and vibrant stained glass windows – a worthwhile experience for anyone interested in history and art. The Museo Civico will teach you everything you need to know about Siena’s political past through a series of images and paintings leading from wall to wall. It only requires a short visit and is the perfect addition to any day trip.
5. Duomo di Siena
- How Much? €5 (Duomo and Piccolomini Library)
- OPA Si Pass: €13 (whole cathedral complex without roof) / €20 (all OPA Si Pass sites)
The Duomo is by far the most popular attraction in Siena, and there is no wonder why – this magnificent cathedral is beautifully crafted, adorned in statues, carvings and intricate paintings. There was no cutting corners and forgetting details when the Duomo was constructed in 1215. Patterned with green and white stripes, this gleaming structure has a striking presence against the sandy backdrop of the surrounding buildings.
The cathedral continues to amaze its visitors upon stepping inside, when confronted by the largest marble graffito mosaic flooring known to exist worldwide. Designed by leading Italian artists from the 14th-19th centuries, the graffito style flooring depicts biblical tales from an artistic perspective. It is a true masterpiece, marrying skill, craftsmanship and imagination.
6. Piccolomini Library
Located inside the Duomo di Siena is the Piccolomini Library, a gold dusted chamber featuring scenes by Pinturicchio and other renowned Sienese artists. Illuminated by two tall, narrow windows is a focal centrepiece of three bare figures – an elegant and simple feature of an otherwise elaborate space. This was by far my favourite feature of the cathedral. It was simply an astounding space, drawing your attention to the multiplicity of detail flourishing the ceiling and walls. I would highly recommend purchasing a pass which includes entry to the library, as it was truly an unforgettable experience.
7. The Duomo Museum and Facciatone
- How Much? €20 (all OPA Si Pass sites)
Host to a variety of artefacts, statues, artwork and ornaments, the museum stows Siena’s historical and religious treasures. Set against a shadowed hall lined by marble statues, stands a mighty stained glass window, a notable feature of the museum – this circular prism marks the entrance to the museum and sets the tone for the rest of the visit.
Beyond this photographers paradise, you can experience panoramic views from the medieval structure adjoined to the museum, the Facciatone. With a view of the Torre del Mangia and the Duomo di Siena, this is arguably the best viewpoint for sightseeing, and with fewer steps than the Torre, is far more accessible. With limited capacity however, queues for the Facciatone are rather tedious and I was waiting over an hour in a rather short queue. Nonetheless, the wait was worth it, bringing a new perspective to the Duomo from above and endless miles of countryside scenery.
At the exit of the museum is a lovely gift shop, where you can browse renaissance art books, Sienese merchandise, perfectly composed postcards and so on. One of my favourite items, found in shops across Tuscany, are the hand-crafted Christmas ornaments – I took home a gorgeous pink butterfly, a haloed dove and an embellished lady-bug (but I wish I’d taken home more). The ornaments range from €13 – €60 and are a charming reminder of Italy.
When leaving the museum, I stumbled upon a quaint glassmakers shop to the left of the exit. The lady who runs the shop is incredibly friendly and makes the items herself. From glass jewellery to fancy ornaments, this was a lovely little spot, escaping the claws of tourism tack. The streets of Siena are riddled with hidden gems, where you can find authentic food, clothing and home accessories – try and escape the crowds and head down a quiet side-street, you never know what you might find.
8. Church of San Domenico
Walking towards this modestly disguised church is the most memorable experience I have from Siena – I’ve been saving the best until last. Set against a magical view of the city, I felt as if I had stumbled into a Disney movie, travelling back in time to a different world. The Duomo takes centre stage amongst terraces of beige brick and burnt orange tiling, broken up by forest green shutters and hillside foliage.
The church itself is a traditional and understated structure, guarded by an army of Cyprus trees. Inside the church, you’ll be amazed by cobalt blue stained-glass windows, which span across wide walls and tall ceilings. Less decorative than the Duomo, but equally as charming – you’ll find fewer tourists here, giving the space an authentic feel, and find views that cannot be matched.
Other Notable Sites
- La Lizza Market: Only held on Wednesday mornings between 8:30am and 13:30pm, I didn’t have the pleasure of exploring this morning market as we arrived on a Friday. It is however, regarded as a great (and cheap) place to source Italian clothing, leather, groceries and Sienese cuisine – This is first on my list of things to do on my next visit!
- Siena National Gallery: This is also on my bucket list for next time – one day just isn’t enough time to do it all! The gallery is home to 12th and 16th Century Sienese artwork, the perfect spot for any art lovers.
- Santa Maria Della Scala Museum: This is an 11th Century hospital located by the Duomo, which has since become a historical site and museum. It is said to offer quite a different historic perspective to Siena and is worth a visit if you get a chance.
Food & Drink
The inspiration behind the title of this post came from Siena’s famous sweet treats, consisting of ricciarelli, dried fruit and nut cake panforte and aniseed flavoured cavallucci. I love trying and testing local cuisine on my travels and was particularly excited to feast on these indulgent sweet bites – the ricciarelli were my favourite of the three, a sugar coated almond biscuit which melts in your mouth. We ordered a taster platter with our morning coffee and fell in love with the rich and sticky textures and flavours.
Another Sienese classic is Pici, a thicker form of spaghetti which is typically served with pecorino cheese or wild boar sauce. Pecorino cheese and wild boar are also classic flavours from this region and definitely worth a try at some point on your trip – pecorino has a buttery, earthy flavour and has since become one of my favourite cheeses, and truffle wild boar salami was a favourite from San Gimignano.
For lunch we grabbed a fresh sandwich from a nearby stall – there are loads of sandwich vendors dotted around, and it the perfect lunch if you’re peckish but want something light. I went for a pecorino cheese sandwich with Italian ham, which was served on a thin crunchy roll – delicious!
Although I would have loved to experience the foodie culture of Siena some more, we unfortunately didn’t have enough time. I have however, listed some recommendations below, suggested from both friends and online forums:
- La Vecchia Latteria: This ice cream parlour is recommended on multiple sites and is located by Siena cathedral – Via S. Pietro, 10, 53100 Siena SI, Italy (£)
- La Taverna di San Giuseppe: Here you can find all things traditionally Tuscan and it has even earned a place within the Michelin-Guide. This was recommended by a friend, who said it is an incredible experience with amazing food, although it is slightly on the pricier side – Via Giovanni Duprè, 132, 53100 Siena SI, Italy (£££)
- Ristorante Tar Tufo: I found this recommendation online, which boasted an evening of fine dining and brilliant views of the city – Via del Sole, 6a, 53100 Siena SI, Italy (££-£££)
If you know of any other amazing places to see, things to do or where to eat, let me know in the comments – I’m excited to visit this city again and spend more time exploring its best kept secrets.
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