Take a Good Lucca Round

Lucca: The Walled City

Cobbled pavements, religious architecture and a rich cultural heritage – Step inside this walled city and marvel in it’s medieval beauty.

  • Where? North of Pisa, Italy
  • When? April – June (& Autumn)
  • How? Car/Train (30-40 min drive from Pisa)

When I set out to explore Tuscany in October 2021, I had not yet heard of Lucca – it was only when compiling my itinerary, that I stumbled across raving reviews of the city’s beauty and heritage. I was not disappointed. Besides beautiful architecture, delicious food, walled walks, breathtaking Torres and a vibrant, bustling atmosphere, Lucca is a labyrinth of narrow paths, hidden treasures and quaint passageways. One moment you’re in a crowded swarm, the next moment, you’ll feel as if you’re the only person in the city.

Lucca is well-known for it’s cycling scene, with it’s hillside scape and flat city paths, so if you’re looking to get active this Spring, book your trip to this wonderful city. If you’re not a willing cyclist, not to worry, the city is small and easily walkable (I managed to get my 80 year old dad around most attractions in a single day on foot). Lucca is diverse and attracts a variety of people; whether you’re on a couples retreat, a family outing or backpacking your way through Italy, Lucca has it all.

Sites & Attractions

1. Piazza dell’Anfiteatro

When scouring the internet for things to do during my Tuscan travels, it was the Piazza dell’Anfiteatro that immediately drew my attention to the city of Lucca. This astounding sphere of bright, honey stained buildings is reminiscent of the Tuscan sun – a golden orb, teeming with lively visitors, lined by a belt of restaurants and cafes. In a past life, the Piazza was a Roman amphitheater, lending to its dramatic and potent stature. With overlooking apartments towering high above the Piazza, there is an omniscient presence – one may feel as if they are at the centre of a Roman performance, the object of an audience who gaze down from above.

The Piazza dell’Anfiteatro is the perfect location for a morning coffee, a sit down lunch or an afternoon Aperol Spritz. You could easily spend an entire afternoon admiring the intricacies of the buildings, the array of washing lines hanging high above & enjoying some people watching – this is one of the highlights of my trip to Lucca & something I would recommend to any newcomers.

2. Basilica of San Frediano

  • Entry? €3

This is a wonderful spot to sit back and enjoy the afternoon sun, whilst sipping on an espresso in the foreground of a glistening architectural masterpiece. The decorative crest of the Basilica is a decadent & vibrant sight – make sure to return as the afternoon sun catches the gold embellishments and watch as the Basilica becomes a sparkling spectacle of crystal light. It truly is a beautiful structure & a sight not to be missed.

3. Guinigi Tower

  • Entry? €5
  • Steps? 233

For an incredible view of the cityscape set against a backdrop of rolling Tuscan hills, make sure to head up the Guinigi Tower and gaze down at Lucca from its rooftop garden. With 233 steps ascending to the top, the views from the garden will certainly reward your efforts! The holm oak branches of the terraced garden make for a wonderful framed photograph & manage to bring the rugged distant terrain right to your feet. I can only imagine how spectacular a sunrise or sunset climb would be…

4. Torre delle Ore

  • Entry? €5
  • Steps? 207

Rivalling the views from the Guinigi Tower, it is also possible to ascend the Torre delle Ore – rather, you will be met by the prominent addition of the Guinigi roof terrace instead. Unfortunately, upon my visit, the tower was closed for renovation. Alas, I still managed to catch a glimpse of the intricate mechanisms of the bell tower and clock-face from across the city canopy & the streets below.

5. Basilica di San Michele in Foro 

  • Entry? Free

Another magnificent feat of architecture is the Basilica di San Michele in Foro, originally commissioned by Pope Alexander II to pay homage to Archangel Michael – and it certainly looks as if it has descended from the heavens! Marble arches line each tier, ornate figurines mount the walls & at the summit of the Basilica, rests a marble statue of Archangel Michael defeating the dragon.

6. Orto Botanico di Lucca

  • Entry? €4

Despite the greenery that encompasses the city of Lucca, within the walls itself, green spaces are awfully shy – whilst this is by no means a criticism, as there is plenty of natural terrain on and beyond the city walls, it just provides all the more reason to visit the green spaces the city does possess. This being the Orto Botanico: a secluded and tranquil space where shrubbery & vegetation flourish.

My October visit did not do the gardens much justice, and it is recommended that an April-June visit will show the gardens in all their glory. However, if you are in search of a moment away from the crowds, then the Orto Botanico is the perfect spot for recharge and relaxation.

7. Via Fillungo

City breaks aren’t all about immersing yourself in the historic sites & attractions – why not take a day off and head into the main shopping centre, where Italian boutiques and designers are plenty? The Via Fillungo is the most energetic and vibrant part of the city, with narrow alleys and paths that lead you from one bustling square to another. It is a great place to dine, wine and shop till you drop, and for all of the tourists out there, there are plenty of spots to stock up on merch and memorabilia.

What to Eat & Where to Eat it?

Lucca is renowned for its delicacy Buccellato di Lucca, a sweet raisin loaf in the shape of a ring. These can be found in nearly every cafe or restaurant and are worth ordering alongside your morning coffee – it is recommended to shop for Buccellato at Vecchi Sapori di Lucca!

Lucca is also highly regarded for its drinking scene, which may be honey to the ears of the wine lovers out there. Vinni Liquori Vanni is home to a variety of Italian vintages, where you can review the cellar or book in a wine tasting session. Alternatively, La Cantina di Lucca is well-known for possessing an array of local wines collected from the regions within 35km of the city – the bartenders will also hand you over a pack of cards alongside your drink, so this is the perfect location to chill out with your friends. Wine isn’t the only beverage on the cards however, with an upcoming craft beer scene making its mark – head over to De Cervesia Beershop and see what they have in store!

For food, there are a variety of suggestions online, but the two that kept recurring were:

  1. Ristorante San Colombano: a quaint and relaxed restaurant located by the city walls. Rampa Baluardo San Colombano, 55100 Lucca LU, Italy££
  2. Osteria Tosca: Located by the Puccini House Museum – a quieter retreat from the liveliness of Piazza dell’Anfiteatro.

Alternatively, see what takes your fancy as you traverse through the winding streets, ask the locals for recommendations or order a fresh sandwich to go from one of many bakeries. The options are endless in this fortified city as far as food, fun and sightseeing goes!

What else is there to do?

I only had the pleasure of Lucca’s company for a single day, as the rest of Tuscany beckoned my presence – but don’t worry, I’ve done all the research & I have a few more suggestions for the lucky few of you who are staying for longer:

  • Lucca Cathedral: found in the Piazza San Martino – it’s ombre Torre can be seen from the heights of the Torre delle Ore & Guinigi Tower. This is said to be a beautiful piece of architecture and a site worth visiting.
  • Museum of Villa Mansi: I am truly heartbroken that I didn’t manage to find time for this one, but alas, next time! This was constructed during the 16th Century by the Benedetti & is a glorious structure complemented by a vast garden landscape.
  • Piazza Napoleone: Similarly to the Piazza dell’Anfiteatro, this is said to be a great spot for people-watching, dining and drinking (whether that’s coffee or wine). In July every year, the Piazza is host to a large music festival & during Christmas, becomes a site for market stalls and ice-skating.
  • Palazzo Pfanner: Again, this one is going on my must-do list for next time. The palace is highly decorated, with luxurious demeanour and stunning gardens.
  • Vecchi Sapori di Lucca: This store is meant to be home to a vast range of high-quality Tuscan products from pasta-wine. If you’re driving to Lucca and can afford to take some delicacies home, then this is a highly acclaimed and recommended spot.
  • Puccini House Museum: If you are an admirer of the great composer Giacomo Puccini, then this museum is certainly the spot for you – admire furnishings, letters & items possessed by Puccini.

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