A modern guide for an ancient city
A city famous for it’s history, architecture and delicious food, there really is no place quite like it. Cobbled paths and ancient arches will take you back in time to the cultural paradise that paved the modern Western world.
Whilst our whistle stop tour lasted only two and a half days, they were jam-packed with sites, scenery and sensational dining. Early morning starts and late evenings enabled us to squeeze much of this magnificent city in, also leaving plenty to explore next time! One of the wonderful things about Rome is that you will stumble upon many attractions by pure chance. A city that beckons to be explored by foot and romed every inch and corner.
What do you need to know?
- Taxis from the airport: standard rate is €50
- Traditional cuisine: Carbonara, Cacio e pepe, fried dishes such as artichoke and stuffed courgette flower
- Taxis in the city: most of the city can be explored on foot, however, if you need a taxi, black cabs are a reliable option and far easier to get a hold of than Uber.
- Be careful: There are lots of scams in the touristy areas particularly Trevi and the Colosseum so keep your wits about you.
The 3 day guide
Day 1 – The best way to spend a half day
- The Colosseum
- Rating: 7/10 – beautiful but busy
- Price: £38 (includes access to the Roman Forum) – self-guided tour
- Booking through: Viator
- Book ahead? Yes
After dropping off our luggage at our weekend apartment (Golden Rooms Piazza di Spagna, Rome) we headed on a half hour walk towards the Colosseum. Dazzled by quaint side roads and vine veiled wires en route, we immediately fell in love with the city.
The Colosseum itself is vast, with plenty of viewpoints around the structure to snap a few pictures before you head inside. There are plenty of cafes and restaurants that encircle the area as well, perfect for catching the evening sun! Arriving at 4:30pm, we explored the Colosseum in golden light, catching its beautiful arched shadows and glistening brim. It was the perfect temperature at this time, as the heat of the day started to melt into a cooler air – I would highly recommend arriving at a similar time, or at the crack of dawn to avoid the crowds.
2. The Roman Forum & Palatine Hills
- Rating: 10/10
- Price: see above
- Booking through: Viator
- Book ahead: Yes
The Roman Forum is one of the most underrated sites in all of Rome (in my opinion). The greenery, the architecture, the historic landscape and towering hills are breathtaking. This really feels like something out of a fairytale.
Far quieter than the Colosseum, the Roman Forum is a sanctuary of peace and solitude, particularly stunning in the evening light. As you climb up the Palatine hill for views of the Forum, you’ll catch orange trees glistening in the evening light, plush foliage lining the pathways and birds soaring across the city scape.
3. Piazza Navona
For the evening, we headed over to Piazza Navona. A bustling square by daylight and even more vibrant at night. We were recommended La Piccola Cuccagna, a magical restaurant located just outside of the square. Cloaked in fairy lights, this small eatery is perfectly inviting, with a range of traditional Roman dishes and brilliant service.
We ordered the fried artichoke, a Roman speciality, which is served with cacio e pepe dip. This had an amazing texture and the heart was particularly delicious – 7/10. The real star of the night however, was the Carbonara. A buttery, cheesy, meaty delight, one of the nicest dishes I had throughout our stay – 8.5/10. We ordered some aperol’s and were treated with a shot of (very strong) limoncello at the end of our meal. A great recommendation which I look forward to returning to!
4. Trastervere
Trastevere is definitely the place to go if you’re looking for some clubs and bars. Crowds pile into the streets, overflowing from the shops, dancing and socialising until the early hours of the morning. This is one of the most vibrant and atmospheric regions of the city at night! It is also a brilliant location for dining out, with endless lanes of restaurants with al fresco style dining and traditional Italian cuisine. We came here the following evening as well to enjoy some cacio e pepe before heading out for drinks!
Day 2 – Exploring on foot
- The Spanish Steps
- Rating: 9/10 without the crowds
- Price: free
- Steps: 135
Our apartment was only a 5 minute walk from the steps, so we decided to head here early. At 8am, the city is utterly peaceful, with few people out in the streets and the morning light just beginning to break through the buildings. The steps were at their most quiet at this time.
On this occasion we were fortunate enough to find the steps decorated in an array of bright crimson and white flowers, trailing from the base to the tip of the steps. With few visitors at this time, we enjoyed descending them in solitude, snapping some gorgeous photographs without the crowds.
2. The Trevi Fountain
- Rating: 7/10 – beautiful, but busy
- Price: Free
Nothing could have prepared me for the sheer scale of the Trevi fountain. An impressive piece of architecture boasting intricate detail and crystal clear water. Nothing could have prepared me also, for the sheer volume of visitors, who occupied the square and surrounding streets. We came here relatively early and were overwhelmed by the crowds. Whilst the fountain is undeniably beautiful and well-worth visiting, the crowd chaos is quite off-putting and seems to only die down at the dead of night.
Nevertheless, once you manage to push your way to the front, the fountain is truly spectacular – and make sure to bring a coin to toss over your shoulder!
3. Alter of the Fatherland
- Rating: 10/10 – beautiful
- Price: from £26
- Steps: 243
This beautiful structure can be seen from anywhere up high in Rome. Large white pillars adorned by a decadent horse and chariot occupy the skyline, which is just as impressive up close. You can climb the stairs or gaze upon the monument from below in the Piazza Venezia. My personal favourite was the view of the Alter from the Palatine Hill and the Terraza del Pincio.
4. Lunch in Campo de’ Fiori
Campo de’ Fiori is perhaps one of the most lively lunch spots in Rome. Home to Osteria da Fortunata, which has grown quite a name for itself on social media, this bustling market square houses plenty of dining options and is the perfect spot to people watch with an Aperol. In the centre of the square is a market packed full of Italian pantry, flowers and clothing, perfect for gift shopping!
5. Piazza Navona by day
As we headed back from lunch to our apartment, we took a slight detour back through the Piazza Navona. This large square is lined with lunch spots and occupied by gorgeous fountains. An all-round beautiful spot to grab some gelato and relax in the sun.
6. The Pantheon
- Rating: 8/10 – busy (come early to avoid the queues)
- Price: Free
Famous for its intricate domed ceiling and for being the most preserved monument in Rome, the Pantheon is certainly a site not to be missed. I recommend getting here early as the queues build up around midday, snaking through the side streets. This is one of few monuments that offer free inside access, so make sure to take a look if you get a chance. The surrounding area is also beautiful, with plenty of boutique shops and restaurants to keep you occupied.
Before finally heading back, we stayed in the nearby area for some well-deserved shopping! The streets of Rome are rippled with boutiques and familiar favourites so take a moment to browse the shops.
7. Rooftop Sunset
- Rating: 10/10
- Price: ££££
Whilst we hoped to explore the Gardens of Villa Borghese in the evening light, time was unfortunately not on our side. By the time we reached the Temple of Asclepius (around 7pm) it had closed it’s gates for the day, leaving us no choice but to head out for drinks slightly earlier!
There are a few rooftop options around this area. Our first stop was the Settimo Roman Cuisine & Terrace, which was fully booked by the time of our arrival. Fretting that we may miss sunset, we frantically asked the hotel concierge to help book us a taxi to the nearest rooftop bar. We were in luck! They kindly pointed us towards the Hotel Splendide Royal, just a 1min walk away…and we were not disappointed.
Admittedly, this was the most extravagant bar we visited throughout our stay, but it was undoubtedly worth it. The view was extraordinary, the drinks divine and the service impeccable. We sat back while the sun sunk below the hills, enjoying the saffron arancini and cod roe sushi that came with our drinks. I highly recommend visiting either bars, but if you’re looking to treat yourself, then the Hotel Splendide Royal is the right choice for you!
Day 3 – Save it for a rainy day
- Breakfast at L’Antico Forno
- Rating: 8/10
- Price: £
We had some time to kill before our next sit booking at 12:30, so decided to head towards the Trevi for some breakfast. We found a few online blogs that recommended L’Antico Forno for its pistachio croissants and focaccia, which was exactly what we needed!
The cafe is lovely, a cross between a supermarket, patisserie, pizzeria and a bakery. You can take your food to go or sit down in one of the few al fresco tables they have to offer. We chose the latter. Down the street you can gaze upon the Trevi whilst sitting comfortably away from the crowds. We arrived quite early so only had to endure a 5min wait for a table, but the queues quickly piled high as the morning progressed – it is clearly a crowd favourite!
2. The Vatican Galleries and Sistine Chapel
- Rating: 9/10 – incredible & incredibly busy
- Price: £25 – self-guided
- Booking through: Purple Crown Tours
The Vatican and Sistine Chapel is definitely one for a rainy day. The galleries are extensive and can take well over half a day to explore. From Wenzel Peter’s Garden of Eden to Michelangelo’s Sistine ceiling, the Vatican is in no short supply of brilliant art and culture. There are multiple galleries, all of which house a fantastic collection. As you aimlessly tour from room to room, you’ll be sure to meet the crowds heading in the direction of the Sistine Chapel, a phenomenal cluster of guided tours and solo tourists scrambling down the halls.
If I’m totally candid, the mass of crowds is rather irritating. I found myself being quickly forced past much of the artwork and sculptures as visitors stampeded through. However, it was well worth the rush when we finally made it to the Sistine chapel, a no photo, no talking zone of peace, solitude and one of the most magnificent pieces of artwork I’d ever seen!
A mural that took four years to complete, scaling the walls and reaching high above onto the ceiling! The details, the colours, the sheer size of the work is breathtaking, something you can’t quite believe until you see it in person.
I would leave as much time as possible to explore the Vatican, opting for early morning tickets. We were unaware of how much there would be to see, so didn’t manage to make it to St Peter’s Basilica or the Vatican Gardens. Nonetheless, I look forward to exploring these on my next visit!
3. Pizza at That’s Amore
- Rating: 8/10
- Price: ££
Before heading back to the airport, we had some time to grab a bite to eat. We’d tried much of the traditional Roman diet, so felt it was time for a pizza – I mean, you can’t leave Italy without having at least one right?
Thankfully, by chance, we stumbled across That’s Amore, an inviting little restaurant with a bustling atmosphere. The pizzas here are totally on theme, served in the shape of a heart and loaded with delicious toppings – what’s not to love? I went for the aubergine pizza, which was incredible (8/10). The aubergine was fresh and buttery, a delicious, yet unexpected pizza pairing. Thumbs up all round, and not to mention the wonderful service!
Thanks for reading 🙂
The photography archives:
A beautiful and diverse city that utterly stole my heart, now sitting proudly within my top 10 cities so far! Where should I travel next?
For more travel inspiration, sites and locations, please subscribe to my blog, or head over to my socials linked below:
Calendar Girl 