Berenjak

Rating: 4.5 out of 5.
  • Where? Borough Market & Soho
  • How much? ££
  • Cuisine? Persian
  • Vegetarian options? Yes
  • Vegan options? Yes
  • Gluten free options? Yes

Visiting the Borough branch of this family-owned business, I was immediately struck by the unique decadence of its façade: stained glass mandalas arching above the windows and burnt amber frames amidst the industrial setting of Borough Market. In the evenings, as the sun dims and the windows light up with the bustle of evening diners inside, Berenjak becomes even more enchanting. Whilst we’re often told not to judge a book by its cover, it’s fair to say that Berenjak defies that rule – what awaits inside is just as enticing as its cover!

Serving an array of traditional Persian dishes, from succulent kebabs to flaky flatbreads, indulge in the regional delicacies of the Alborz Mountains (borough) or Tehran (Soho). The menu has earned Berenjak an esteemed reputation, with particular regard for the hummus, which is held in high acclaim across the city. I particularly enjoyed the small plate ‘mazeh’ style of dining, which was perfect for enjoying a range of different dishes. It’s rare that restaurants live up to their name, however in this case, I cannot wait to go Beren-back!

Inside the Borough branch, we were greeted by the warm and intimate setting of the downstairs. Seated along the bar, we were thrown into the Berenjak buzz, eagerly watching chefs curate dish upon dish and serve vibrant cocktails to neighbouring customers. While the upstairs is more spacious, I really enjoyed the intimacy of the bar seating – we were able to watch first-hand reactions to each dish, which in turn, informed our order! Let’s call it market research. I was, however, rather jealous of the table behind us, who were nestled along the window-front, overlooking the streets of Borough – no doubt I will be booking these seats in future!

The Food

I went to Berenjak with a friend after work, where we quickly requested the wine menu and immediately started to salivate over other people’s food! I’m rather ashamed to admit that neither of us was that hungry (a rarity), so our order mostly consists of small plates – I will, however, be returning to try the infamous kebabs at some point…review pending! What we did try, we thoroughly enjoyed, and were planning our next visit before we even paid the bill – a testament to the quality of food and the sheer excellence of its preparation. I highly recommend visiting Berenjak, and here’s why:

Hummus e Khanegi – Black Chickpeas, Tahini, Walnuts, Somagh – £7.50

10/10 – If you prefer lumpy hummus to the smooth stuff, then you probably won’t love this dish as much as I did. Personally, I think this hummus is worth every inch of its hype – it’s rich, buttery, and I couldn’t stop myself from diving back in for more. I’d even go as far as to say that this is my favourite hummus in London (so far). The crispy onions and parmesan are a lovely touch, well paired with the melt-in-the-mouth consistency of the hummus.

Kashk e Bademjoon – Coal Cooked Aubergine, Whey, Walnuts, Onion – £8.50

7.5/10 – I absolutely love the flavour of aubergine, and thoroughly enjoyed this dip. It maintains the natural flavour of the aubergine without overpowering it with seasoning and garnish. Instead, the sweet chutney-style topping enhanced the dish, and the crunch of the walnuts balanced the texture.

Barbari – Clay Baked Flatbread, Sesame Seeds – £4

8/10 – Of course, you’ll need something to dip into all of your delicious dips, so make sure to get a basket of clay-baked bread. The perfect dipping partner – crisp, light, and covered in sesame seeds. The char of the crust gives the bread a welcome bitterness, which works perfectly with the salty hummus and sweet aubergine!

Torshi Haftebijar – Pickled Cauliflower, Carrot, Cabbage, Turnip – £3

5/10 – Not my favourite dish, but a refreshing one. It was a bit too tart for my liking and I was disappointed by the lack of cauliflower – we received mostly carrot and turnip. It was a nice palette cleanser, but I wouldn’t order it again.

Overall our experience at Berenjak was excellent. Delicious food, lovely service and a cosy atmosphere – I can’t wait to return!


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