Christmas in Vienna

Vienna had been on my Christmas wish list for quite some time, renowned for its wintry charm and traditional markets. As a white Christmas became less and less likely in London, we finally decided to book our trip to the frosty capital of Austria. Admittedly, though spouts of snowfall occasionally danced in the air, we had snow luck of the powdery white blanket we’d been dreaming of – instead we were met by blue skies, crisp air, and glorious sunshine, so I’m not complaining!

The city as a whole is incredibly majestic, and peacefully quiet in comparison to London at peak season, making for the perfect winter escape. With a population of only 2 million, it’s unsurprising that the city exudes tranquility. Towering structures of Gothic, Renaissance, and baroque influence pervade the city streets, adding to the awe of its vacant magnificence – at times, you’ll feel as though you have the whole city to yourself.

Vienna is notable for its musical history, home of legendary classical musicians, Beethoven and Mozart. Consequently, a trip to Vienna beckons a visit to one of the city’s many opera houses, for an evening of elegance and orchestra. The State Opera House is conveniently located amongst much of the festive flurry, surrounded by streets of dazzling lights, Christmas markets, and cozy traditional restaurants – to make your magical Christmas break even more special, make sure to book ahead.

What do you need to know beforehand?

  • When the markets take place: mid-November until Christmas.
  • Traditional food: Vienna is notable for its sweet treats and savoury meat dishes. If you have a sweet tooth, the Sacher-torte (chocolate cake) or the Apfelstrudel (Apple Strudel) are the perfect options for you. If you’re eager for something savoury, the Wiener Schnitzel (veal escalope), giant brezels (pretzels), and tafelspitz (boiled beef) are the most popular. For something to drink, head to the markets for the famous Weihnachtspunsch Christmas punch!
  • Length of stay: 4-5 days. Vienna is vast and the Christmas markets extend across the city, so make sure to give yourself plenty of time to explore them all.
  • Transport: Uber and Bolt are available in Vienna, however it’s incredibly easy (and affordable) to use the U-Bahn subway. Tickets cost €2.40 for a single journey.
  • Spending Money: There are lots of markets and attractions in Vienna that only take cash, so make sure to bring enough.

1. Head to the Christmas Markets

Vienna is famous for its array of Christmas Markets, boasting some of the best in Europe. Around every corner awaits rustic wooden stalls piled high with Austrian cheeses, handmade crafts, dazzling decorations and Viennese street food. There are so many to choose from, that three days in the city wouldn’t leave you enough time to explore them all, so I’ve narrowed them down to my top three:

  1. Christkindlmarkt Rathausplatz 

When: mid-Novemeber to late December

This is the most popular and most photographed of the Vienna Christmas markets, famous for the iconic archway that glistens before the breathtaking backdrop of Rathaus City Hall. The market is extensive, home to a maze of stalls, rides, light displays, and its infamous winding ice-rink. You could easily spend a whole day exploring the market and the surrounding gardens, indulging in a bratwurst baguette, hot chocolate, or warm winter punch.

I recommend heading to the rink, where you can glide through the trees, wind down narrow corridors, or dance under the lights of City Hall – at 8,500㎡, Vienna’s Ice World is one of the largest rinks in Europe! Make sure to stay until the sun goes down to witness the square and rink alight with festivities and the magical blaze of glistening decorations. As you head out of the market, look out for the tree of hearts, a beautiful canopy of plump scarlet hearts lighting up the night sky!

2. Adventmarkt at Karlsplatz 

When: mid-Novemeber to late December

Viewing Platform Entry: €5 (cash only)

We stumbled upon Adventmarkt by chance. Heading towards Charles Church for its panoramic viewing platform, the market was a pleasant surprise en route. In terms of the stalls, Adventmarkt is by far the most authentic and charming, hosting many independent ceramic artists and handmade crafts. Whilst Vienna’s markets are vast, you’ll often find the same gifts and commodities at each one, so if you’re looking for something unique, I recommend heading here!

The market itself is set against the picturesque setting of Charles Church, a beautiful structure which overlooks the square. In the centre you’ll find children stacking hay whilst the adults enjoy a warm cup of winter punch. The market is the most quaint and traditional in the city centre, whisking you back in time to the ghost of Vienna’s Christmas past! Personally, Adventmarkt was my favourite of Vienna’s markets due to its modest charm and individuality.

3. Weihnachsdorf Belvedere 

When: mid-Novemeber to late December

Gallery Entry: €14.50

The gardens of Belvedere Palace and a tour of its gallery, home of Gustav Klimt’s ‘The Kiss’, is a must-visit regardless of the season. It’s a bonus that this gorgeous destination just so happens to host a Christmas market too! Outside the palace walls, you’ll find one of the best culinary markets in Vienna, serving delicious, steaming treats such as Spätzle (a traditional pasta dish), giant Wiener Schnitzels, and cheese-stuffed pretzels – so make sure to pack an appetite. We headed to the market after exploring the majestic grounds of the palace, eager to get our icy mitts on a warm cup of hot chocolate, which is festively served in a stocking shaped mug. Whilst there are some ornamental stalls for gift goers, most visitors came along for the food.

If you have time to explore more of Vienna’s winter wonderland, here are some additional markets you can check out:

  1. Schönbrunn Christmas Market – located outside of the Habsburg Palace, famous for it’s arts and crafts.
  2. Weihnachtsmarkt am Spittelberg – a narrow street market home to stalls, art galleries and craft shops.
  3. Christmas at the MuseumsQuartier – in the heart of the Museumsquartier, with a range of stands and a beautiful backdrop.
  4.  Stephansplatz Christmas market – one of the largest and most traditional in the city centre. Plenty of options and surrounded by Christmas light displays.

2. Try a Traditional Viennese Winter Warmer

From bratwursts to Wiener Schnitzels, Vienna has no shortage of hearty treats to keep you warm during the winter period. You’ll be able to find most of these delicacies at the Christmas markets, or at Nashmarkt, the popular food market just outside of the centre. However, if you’re looking to enjoy one of these winter warmers in the comfort of the indoors, here are a few of the most popular spots:

  1. Figlmueller £££ – A beautiful art deco style restaurant, which is one of the most famous in Vienna for it’s Wiener Schnitzel. Figlmueller is incredibly difficult to book so I recommend checking a few weeks in advance.
  2. Skopik & Lohn £££ – A modern take on traditional Viennese dining, this quirky and sophisticated bar and restaurant serves some of the best Viennese food in the city. The quality here is unmatched and the food is divine – I highly recommend ordering some bread and whipped butter to start, and the crystal clear gina colada to finish!
  3. Ilona Stuberl ££ – This family-run business is famous for it’s goulash soup, serving authentic Viennese dishes made with a whole lot of love! This is perfect for a more intimate dining experience, and is well-loved by locals.
  4. Pfarrwirt ££ – Built in 1180, this is one of the oldest taverns in Vienna, known for its traditional Wiener Schnitzel and award-winning wines. Opening its cozy winter parish during the colder months, and its beautiful farm-style garden in summer, Pfarrwirt is a popular spot throughout the year, so make sure to book ahead.
  5. Amador ££££ – This Michelin-starred restaurant is one to be saved for special occasions. Though it isn’t exactly traditional Viennese cuisine, it’s certainly one to keep in mind if you fancy something other than schnitzel and goulash for a change.

3. Cosy up in a Christmassy Cafe

As well as winter warmers, the Viennese are known to enjoy a sweet treat (or two), indulging in delicious apple strudels and Sacher-tortes. The city enjoys a rich and vibrant cafe culture, where cakes and coffee come hand in hand – cafe culture is in fact so integral to the Viennese way of living that it is marked as a UNESCO world heritage feature. There is an enchanting cafe on nearly every corner of the city; however, to help you narrow them down, here are a few of the most popular:

  1. Sacher Hotel – The Sacher Hotel is a magical destination at Christmas, with towering nutcrackers guarding its entrance and dazzling lights illuminating its facade. The hotel is perhaps the most famous in the city, renowned for serving the original Sacher-torte, prepared from a recipe that dates back to 1832. The cake unsurprisingly draws in quite a crowd, with queues of customers waiting in line for a rich chocolate slice. The hotel conceals a decadent cafe, with its bright chandeliers, red velvet pillows, and trimmings of gold – vintage, chic, and perfectly traditional. Hotel Sacher certainly lives up to its name, and as for the cake…well, you’ll have to stop by and try it for yourself!
  2. Vollpension – This quirky little spot is one of the most popular in the city, drawing in crowds to try ‘granny’ cakes in a granny-esque living room-style diner. The cafe prides itself on bridging the gap between generations, serving cakes made by grandmas and grandpas from all over the world. Its maximalist interior is a warm hug in itself, a cozy cavern to shelter from the brisk cold of the outdoors. So snuggle up, order a slice of homemade cake, chat to your neighbour, and make yourself at home!
  3. Café Central – Café Central is reminiscent of classic Parisian café culture, boasting a long history of celebrity guests from poets to social revolutionaries. Its interior is vast and imposing, a grand atrium of tall pillars and marble accents. The cafe serves a range of traditional Viennese cakes and is a popular landmark for both dining and sightseeing, definitely one to put on your itinerary.
  4. Kaffee Alt Wien – This is one of the most unassuming destinations for a delicious apple strudel. It’s a quaint and rather humble little spot, less extravagant perhaps than some of its rivals, but no less mighty. For a quieter spot to taste some traditional sweet treats, make sure to check it out!
  5. Schlosscafe im Oberen Belvedere – I personally really loved this cafe, attached to Upper Belvedere Palace. We stopped by on a really cold evening after the sun had set, and the inside was so warm and relaxed – like many of Vienna’s cafes, its regal interior creates an additional flair of luxury, making your escape from the outdoors all the more worth it! They serve a variety of teas, cakes, and coffees, but for me, the hot chocolate was the star of the show. Rich, creamy, and piping hot, the perfect drink for a cold winter’s day.

4. Christmas Light-Seeing

It wouldn’t be a Christmas city break without some Christmas light-seeing! Year-on-year, familiar contenders from all over the world battle to shine, from London’s iconic Regent Street angels to New York’s Christmas at Rockefeller. However, recently, Vienna’s Christmas light displays have been attracting a lot of attention, stepping up to this annual spectacle. Whilst you’ll likely stumble upon many of Vienna’s displays by chance, here are a few not-to-miss spots for a glistening gram:

  1. Graben – Bringing Vienna’s regal indoors, outside, a gorgeous display of tiered chandeliers paves the way along the Graben. Right in Vienna’s city centre, the Graben is a great place to begin your light-seeing tour!
  2. Stephansplatz Square – As you walk towards Stephansplatz Square, you’ll encounter store after store dusted in a coating of bright lights, ornaments, and extraordinary decorations. Though the square itself is relatively modest, it contains a glistening tree at its heart, a proud and alluring centrepiece to the vibrant market square.
  3. Kärntner Straße – Towards the end of Kärntner Straße is where the magic begins to unfold. On the right, you’ll find Hotel Sacher lit up in gold, and straight ahead, your gaze will meet a giant-sized bow decorating luxury fashion house, Popp & Kretschmer. This is one of the most distinctive Christmas light spots in the city, drawing in crowds from far and wide. In addition to the Christmas lights, make sure to pay attention at the pedestrian crossings, where lovable icons guide the way!
  4. Christkindlmarkt Rathausplatz – Last but not least, is Christkindlmarkt Rathausplatz, which is home to an extraordinary light display, twinkling stalls and a dazzling ice rink. This is a really spectacular spot – we drove past on our first evening in the city and were taken aback by the beautiful lights and the sheer magnitude of the market. Equally as beautiful by day, it’s certainly worth extending your stay in the market until dusk to witness the square light up in all its sparkling glory!

Gallery


Thank you for reading! For more travel plans made easy, make sure to subscribe to my blog or head to my socials linked below:

Leave a comment