Is London’s Georgian Restaurant and Speakeasy worth the hype?
- Where? Soho, 43 Charlotte St., London, W1T 1RS
- How much? £££
- Book ahead? Yes
- Cuisine? Georgian
- Vegetarian options 🌽 – Yes
- Vegan options 🌱 – Yes, limited
- Gluten free options 🌾 – Yes, limited
- Dog friendly 🐶 – No
As it was my first time trying Georgian food, I wasn’t quite sure what to expect. However, after coming across rave reviews online about the khinkali dumplings—a traditional Georgian dish with a twist of Asian fusion and seasonal ingredients—I was eager to try Kinkally, so I made my way to Soho to check it out.
First things first, the atmosphere is incredibly seductive, as if you’ve stepped into a 1920s speakeasy; you’re whisked behind velvet curtains into the dark ambiance of the dining room. Lowlit, amber lighting warms the narrow space, while a long staircase leads you down into the cellar-like bar, which I am eager to return to. We dined here on a rainy London day, making it incredibly cosy and inviting inside. Its sharp, darkened interior is far from hostile, instead offering the captivating allure of a Cigarettes After Sex album—a perfect, sexy date night spot.
From the high street, Kinkally might be easy to overlook, which seems to play to its advantage; customers typically hail from an exclusive circle of those ‘in the know,’ often returning to the restaurant on multiple occasions. This familiarity made ordering a breeze, as we simply mirrored the choices of the neighboring table. While the service was generally good, we occasionally felt a bit rushed. Would I return? Yes, but more for the bar and ambiance than for the food, which you can read more about below.
The Food
Unfamiliar with many of the choices, we turned to the table next to us, our waitress, and some online recommendations for guidance on what to order. The service was incredibly friendly and knowledgeable, helping us navigate the menu with insights about the dishes, their popularity, and how much to order for our group. In the end, we went for a mix of small plates, some larger dishes, and, of course, the khinkali.
The Khinkali
Wagyu, peppercorn plum sauce, svanetian salt – £14
7/10 – Starting off with the star of the show, the khinkali, which are small chimney-shaped dumplings served with a wooden spoon. The less traditional Wagyu khinkali are by far the most popular, followed closely by the tiger-striped Langoustines. Overall, I enjoyed this dish; the peppercorn plum sauce was delicious, and I couldn’t stop lapping it up with the dumpling tops. However, would I have known it was Wagyu if I hadn’t been told beforehand? Probably not. I actually found the stuffing rather bland, with much of the flavour reserved only for the sauce, which was quite disappointing.
Small Plates
Baked aubergine, satsebeli, vanilla matsoni – £12
8.5/10 – While the khinkali are undoubtedly celebrated as the stars of the meal, the aubergine is the real hidden hero. With its rave reviews, it’s no wonder this dish stands out. Who would have thought that such a humble aubergine could deliver so much flavour? It was tender and truly unlike anything I’ve ever tasted before. I highly recommend it.
Beef tartar, kindzmari, black truffle – £16
6.5/10 – This was probably my least favourite dish of the evening, but it was still quite enjoyable, and likely due to personal taste. The meat is tender, and the flavours are there; however, the dish can become slightly sickly after a few bites. I recommend sharing it between two or three people. Overall, it’s nice, but not my top choice.
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