Summer in the South of France

The Rocky Allure of Côte d’Azur

The south of France is a dream destination for many travellers. With its picturesque beaches, luxurious yachts, and enchanting summer evenings accompanied by wine and delicious food, it offers an idyllic setting for a memorable holiday. Whether you crave the opulence of Monaco or seek refuge in the tranquil hills of Èze, the south of France has something to offer for everyone.

Over the years, I have been fortunate enough to regularly travel to the south of France, frequently visiting the picturesque Port Grimaud, located across the bay from Saint Tropez. This year, however, we decided to explore the eastern side of the French Riviera and made the vibrant city of Nice our base.

My previous day trip to this beautiful city left me in awe of its old town, known for its charming cobbled streets, evening markets, and variety of restaurants. When visiting Nice, staying near the old town is a must. We chose to stay at the Mercure Notre Dame, which offered a rooftop pool and bar, and was conveniently located near Nice Ville station and the old town, just a ten-minute walk in either direction. Our seven day trip was packed with day trips, hikes, beach clubs and food. Here is all you can expect from Nice and its surrounding towns:

Nice

Overall Rating: 8/10

Nice often receives a mixed reception. For many, its nightlife doesn’t live up to the extravagance of Monaco or Cannes, nor does it quite match the charm of Èze and Antibes. However, for us, it was the perfect base destination, complete with gorgeous beaches and a bustling centre unlike many of the surrounding towns. From Nice Ville station, you can travel to nearly everywhere along the French coast, making it the perfect destination for exploring the region. If you wish to travel to the popular destinations of Èze or Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat, you can also hop on the bus that travels directly in and out of Nice. Here are a few highlights to add to your itinerary:

Colline du Château offers panoramic views of Nice and is a must-visit attraction. Situated at the end of the Promenade des Anglais, a short ten-minute climb leads to this beautiful viewing platform. It is particularly popular during sunrise and sunset, providing breathtaking views as the sun sets behind the hills, casting the coastline in orange and red hues. Don’t forget to explore the gardens and parks, and you might even discover a hidden waterfall (just be mindful of the splash zone).
Explore one of the largest collections of work by Henri Matisse at Musee Matisse for just €9. Located on the periphery of the city, this is a must-see activity to save for a rainy day or an early morning, set in a beautiful 17th-century villa, accompanied by gardens to explore.
Good Design Store is a hidden gem for homeware lovers. This bespoke store can be found by walking left past the Monument aux Morts de Rauba-Capeù and up rue de Foresta, making it the perfect destination for souvenirs or holiday home decor.
Marche aux Fleurs Cours Saleya is the famous flower market located in the old town, open every day from 9am to 1pm, except on Mondays. It’s an ideal place for leisurely strolls and photo opportunities, and definitely a must-visit. Additionally, you can find local produce, so be sure to pick up a peach or a tray of sliced watermelon and wander around this vibrant market.
After spending a few days on rocky beaches, you might be yearning for a comfortable sun lounger to relax on. Fortunately, Nice offers numerous affordable beach clubs where you can unwind with a cocktail in hand. Two popular options, offering sunbeds for €20 – €30 per day (towel not included), are Ruhl Plage and Bocca Mar. My personal favorite was Bocca Mar, which offers a must-have raspberry mojito. In the evenings, these beach clubs transform into lively nightlife spots, so be sure to visit the promenade at night. For a more upscale experience, consider visiting Castel Plage for fresh seafood in a secluded setting.
Le Plongeoir is an iconic representation of Nice, a stunning restaurant perched on a rock that extends into the mesmerizing ‘gatorade blue’ sea. Adorned with decorative diving boards and rope bridges, it offers an ideal setting for taking photographs. While Le Plongeoir does operate as a restaurant, it is generally not recommended by visitors. However, it is definitely worth a visit to capture its beauty. For hiking enthusiasts, an early morning visit followed by a left turn towards Coco Beach is recommended. This route takes you along a rocky coastal path to Villefranche-sur-Mer, passing through beautiful secluded bays and swimming spots. The approximately 6-kilometre walk takes around 1.5 hours, and for those not keen on retracing their steps, the option to return by train from Villefranche-sur-Mer for just €2 is available.
From 7 a.m. to 6 p.m. on Mondays, a charming flea market called Marche de la Brocante takes place in the old town along Cours Saleya. It’s the perfect spot to find unique souvenirs, local crafts, and artwork.
If you’re seeking to immerse yourself in the nightlife of Nice, two must-visit spots are Wayne’s, an Irish bar nestled in the old town, and Waka’s, a lively bar and club situated on the outskirts near the promenade. Both locations are fun and affordable, and remain open until 2 am. Brits abroad, you’ll feel right at home at these two!
Villa Masséna Musée is a charming spot in Nice, priced at around €10 for entry. It is located next to the famous Negresco hotel, making it convenient to visit both essential sightseeing spots at once. The museum offers a decadent and regal experience, complete with a gorgeous garden to explore.
One of the highlights of visiting Nice is grabbing a takeaway pizza and heading to the beach for sunset. With plenty of popular pizza restaurants to choose from, Pizza Pili stands out as one of the most sought-after spots, offering fresh pizza with a wide variety of toppings for just €8. To ensure you have enough time to order and take a leisurely stroll to the beach before sunset, keep in mind that the pizza takes about 15-20 minutes to cook. It’s a perfect way to end the day!
Nice is known for its diverse food scene, offering an exciting yet overwhelming variety of dining options. For breakfast and brunch, locals and visitors alike rave about the delicious sandwiches at Panivore, the delightful cookies and breakfast bowls at Marinette, and the inviting atmosphere at Cafe Paulette. In the evenings, consider reserving a table at Bocca Nissa for Mediterranean sharing plates in the charming old town, or indulge in a more upscale dining experience at Les Bains du Castel, renowned for its seafood. Other popular spots among tourists and locals include La Meranda for regional cuisine, The Rossettisserie, a family-run establishment, Illia Pasta for authentic Italian dishes, and Marcel for a chic bistro experience. If you’re craving a sweet treat, don’t miss the wide array of ice cream flavours at Fenocchio, a must-visit spot!

Antibes

Overall Rating: 8/10

Just a 20-minute train ride from Nice Ville station, you can access the treasures of Antibes, a quaint and peaceful town to the west of Nice. Once you disembark at the station, make your way into the centre of the old town and grab a coffee from Nomad’s cafe before heading into the morning market to browse the vibrant selection of local produce.

Antibes is one of my top choices for souvenir shopping. Its narrow streets are lined with charming small shops and local craft stores. The cobbled pathways wind their way through the old town, with beautiful pink flowers lining the walls and fortress-like viewing platforms. I suggest starting your day early to make the most of your time here.

One of the highlights in Antibes is visiting the stunning Billionaire’s Bay, accessible by bus. Upon arrival, a walk along the coastal path and up into the shrubbery reveals the iconic view of the bay and leads to some secluded, beaches. The large stones in the area call for rock shoes to navigate the coastline comfortably – although mind you, they’re not the coolest look.

Before returning to Nice, make sure to revisit the old town to enjoy a meal at one of Antibes’ restaurants. Our fortuitous discovery of Le P’tit Cageot proved to be a trip highlight, with its tasty menu and exceptional service.

Cannes

Overall Rating: 7.5/10

Cannes is located to the west of Nice and can be reached by train in just 25 to 40 minutes. If you’re looking for sandy beaches, influencers, endless beach clubs, and stunning aperol sunsets, then Cannes should be at the top of your itinerary.

We enjoyed an evening in Cannes, leisurely walking down Boulevard de la Croisette towards Port Pierre Canto, where some of the most renowned clubs like Baoli and Medusa are located. These venues are celebrated for their extravagance and carnival-like atmosphere, featuring sparklers, dancers, and glamorous visitors. Prior to the late-night club scene, both places offer dining options, so we decided to visit Le Baoli.

The setting was truly incredible, and the cocktail menu, inspired by the seven wonders of the world, was really unique. While the food was good, we ended up being overcharged by about €50 each, echoing a common complaint found online. This overcharging seemed to be a recurring issue, which somewhat overshadowed the pleasant dining experience.

Cannes, along with Monaco and Saint-Tropez, is known for its opulence and glamour, hosting the International Film Festival and, in my line of work, the Cannes Lions Festival. While famous for luxury establishments, the city also provides a variety of mid- to low-priced options. We enjoyed browsing upscale shops and people-watching along the promenade. Though not universally loved, it is an eccentric city that is definitely worth experiencing.

Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat

Overall Rating: 7/10

Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat is another luxurious spot, boasting some of the most expensive residential properties in the region. However, much of the noise around this small commune surrounds it’s beaches not it’s real estate.

For those fortunate enough to stay or indeed own one of the many glamorous villas that scale the peninsula, a summer spent here must be truly peaceful and idyllic. If, like us, however, you’re here for just a day trip, chances are you’re coming for the beaches. If you’re based in Nice, you can hop on the 15 bus, which takes you directly to the town in 25-30 minutes. From there, a pleasant walk down to Paloma Beach awaits, offering gorgeous scenery en route. As you approach the beach, you’ll be greeted by some photogenic openings in the foliage and crystal-clear waters.

Unless you’re staying in the area, Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat is primarily a beach destination. The town itself offers very few activities, and though there are some charming restaurants, they are limited in number. To explore more of the area, I recommend making a diversion towards La Fleur du Cap or Ville et Jardins Ephrussi de Rothschild to admire some of the most stunning villas in the region. Alternatively, you can hike around the peninsula along the coastal path, which takes about 1.5 hours to complete a full circuit.

Villefranche-sur-Mer

Overall Rating: 7/10

Similarly to Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat, Villefranche-sur-Mer is famous for its beautiful beach, featuring smaller, more comfortable pebbles for sunbathing. Villefranche also has a charming old town, filled with small souvenir shops and delightful restaurants like La Belle Etoile and La Cave Nature. We came here for the beach, a stunning spot framed by brightly coloured buildings that light up the coastline. Conveniently, this beautiful bay is just a 7-minute train ride from Nice!

Èze

Overall Rating: 8/10

Èze was one of my favourite locations from our stay. This car-free village, nestled high in the hills, can be reached by taking the 602 or 82 bus, or you can head to Èze-sur-mer station and hike for 1 hour up the “Nietzsche“ path. We chose to hike up, which is a beautiful, though tough climb, so I recommend bringing plenty of water and heading here early in the day before the heat of the sun kicks in.

Once you reach the top, you’ll be welcomed by a beautiful stone town, where winding paths lead you to cavernous shops and hilltop restaurants, with amazing sea views. If you love finding genuine, unique gifts and souvenirs, you’re in for a treat. We stumbled upon a delightful little shop with hand-painted watercolours and stunning orchid resin jewellery. I regret not buying one of these beautiful necklaces!

One of the highlights in Èze is the picturesque Jardin Exotique, a lovely plateau filled with succulents and flowers that offers spectacular views in the hills. The entry fee for the gardens is €8, but it’s definitely worth it. On Sundays, Èze also hosts a market at Place de la Colette, where you can find local produce and handmade crafts. For food, I recommend heading to Château Eza or Hôtel Château de La Chèvre d’Or, which boast some of the best views of the Riviera.

Monaco

Overall Rating: 5/10

Maybe it’s the bright lights of the Monaco Grand Prix or the glamour of Monte Carlo’s casino culture that set my expectations high, but I found myself somewhat disappointed. While I don’t doubt that Monaco is incredibly exciting for those with large amounts of money to spend, if you’re just visiting for a day or evening, you’ll realise there isn’t much to do.

Most visitors head to Café de Paris to sit al fresco and people-watch outside Casino Monte Carlo, or stroll down to the harbour to gaze at jaw-dropping yachts, hoping for an invitation aboard. During the day you can head to the Musée Océanographique de Monaco, the Prince’s Palace, and the Japanese Gardens. It is undoubtedly a beautiful destination, filled with stunning buildings and endless luxury shops, but you needn’t spend more than half a day here. Fortunately, it’s only a 20-minute train from Nice Ville!

Saint-Tropez

Overall Rating: 6/10

Saint-Tropez shares a common trait with Monaco: it is particularly enjoyable for those who appreciate luxury. Similar to Monaco, Saint-Tropez caters to the affluent, offering a delightful haven of luxury with premium experiences. If you’re hoping to enjoy a taste of high-end living for a day or two, the drive from Nice to Saint-Tropez takes just under two hours, or a little over an hour from Cannes.

Over the years, tourism has increasingly infiltrated the region, making certain areas more budget-friendly, particularly around the port, where you’ll find more affordable dining options and bars. Exploring the streets and window-shopping along luxury lanes is certainly exciting, but if I’m totally candid, some areas can be a bit dirty, lacking the pristine quality I was expecting.

Beyond people-watching and admiring yachts, Saint-Tropez is renowned for its picturesque coastal walks, the iconic bell tower of Notre-Dame de l’Assomption, and the historic Citadel. The town also features a variety of stunning sandy beaches, including Pampelonne and Bouillabaisse. A must-try in Saint-Tropez is the Tarte tropézienne, a delicious cream-stuffed brioche dessert famous in the area.

Port Grimaud

Overall Rating: 9/10

Port Grimaud is one of my favourite destinations in the South of France—a charming village of vibrant houses lining the canals. Often referred to as ‘The Little Venice of Provence’, it exudes romanticism, with its cosy canal-side restaurants, winding waterways, and quaint shops.

We have visited Port Grimaud regularly over the years, staying at the Hotel Giraglia on the beachfront. This fantastic hotel comes highly recommended, and it houses some of the most exquisite tiles crafted by local ceramic artists at a hillside shop called Poterie des 3 Terres, which I also recommend visiting. Two of my most treasured plant pots were purchased here! The nighttime market in the village is also a wonderful place to find souvenirs, taking place on Monday evenings during July and August.

Dining along the canals at sunset is an absolute must while in Port Grimaud. There are many restaurant options, so I recommend booking in advance; favourites include Lily’s, Rialto Pizza, and Le Grand Pin. Unsurprisingly, the waterfront can be quite touristy, with some underwhelming restaurants that have hefty price tags, so I recommend planning ahead!

Thank you for reading Calendar Girl Blog! For more travel plans made easy, make sure to subscribe below and head to my socials linked here: