- Where? Soho, 1 Dean St, London W1D 3SW
- How much? £-££
- Book ahead? Yes
- Cuisine? Italian-American
- Vegetarian Options? Yes
- Vegan Options? Yes, on request
- Gluten Free Options? Yes, on request
- Dog friendly? Yes, in bar area only
Italian food meets American sized portions? Yes please! After a full day of window shopping in London, exploring it’s winding alleyways, and scenic canal paths, there’s nothing better than settling in for a hearty meal. And in Soho, Grasso is the place to be.
I’d had my eye on this spot for ages. My social media feed had been flooded with shots of their golf ball-sized meatballs and satisfyingly stringy mozzarella pulls. So of course, we booked ourselves in. Fortunately, my friend and I managed to visit for a midweek lunch, an ideal time when London is blissfully tourist free. Getting a table was easy, but on weekends and evenings, it’s a different story. Grasso is a hot spot, so plan ahead if you don’t want to miss out!
The Vibe
The exterior is bold and funky, a pop-art burst of modern design within an otherwise understated setting. The typeface and aesthetic have a modern retro feel, which I really liked. It’s a style that many bars and restaurants are embracing lately, adding a quirky and fun edge. In Soho, where many traditional spots lean into an old-fashioned, sultry, speakeasy vibe, Grasso’s vibrant look feels refreshingly different.
Inside, Grasso is just as bold and fun. It’s like stepping into an Aperol Spritz submarine with orange walls, orange seating, checkered floors and floor-length mirrors everywhere. The vibe is somewhere between a vintage train carriage and an American diner, so you can’t quite place the era, which just adds to the charm. The walls are covered in cool posters, the kind I low key wanted to take home, mixed with personal touches from the family owners. But the biggest surprise? Head downstairs to the loos and suddenly you’re in a full on nightclub, disco music and strobes included.
It’s all a bit random but that’s what makes it great. Have I walked into someone’s house, a club or a totally different country? No idea but I’m into it.
The Service
We had a bit of a mixed experience with the service. On one hand, we had a wonderfully attentive, sweet and slightly shy waiter giving us five star treatment. On the other, there were a few servers rushing us to order and eat, making it feel like we were being pushed through a well oiled sausage factory.
It wouldn’t put me off coming back, but it’s hard not to notice how common this has become, especially in big cities. What happened to the days of a relaxed, conversational lunch? To be fair, if it were a busy weekend, I’d understand, but this was midweek and far from packed.
These days it feels like you’re just another penny in someone’s pocket, and they’re as keen to seat the next table as they were to get you in. It’s the reality of London’s mass crowds, the TikTok viral boom and restaurants trying to maintain footfall post COVID. But honestly, giving customers a moment to breathe wouldn’t hurt. Let people enjoy the experience as much as the food. It’s the only reason I wouldn’t give Grasso a 4+ rating, it let them down slightly.
The Food
Cheesy Garlic Bread
£7 | Warning: bring mints!
This was honestly so good but let’s be real, it’s garlic bread so of course it was. The bread was soft and bouncy, something the store bought kind just can’t compete with. The garlic butter was slathered over the perfectly toasted crusts so much that it would scare even vampires away, and the cheese just made it that extra bit indulgent.
I loved it but it’s pretty heavy and definitely one to share between three or four people. Unless you’re feeling ambitious, in which case, I hope you carry gum!
Mom’s Spaghetti
£22 | Pork and beef meatballs
This is probably their most iconic dish and it’s right there in the name. It instantly reminds you that this is a family owned spot serving up hearty home style food. You’re not just getting a standard spag bol, you’re getting a secret generational recipe straight from the owner’s mum. It would be rude not to order it unless of course one of their other delicious options catches your eye.
And honestly? It was so good. The meatballs literally melted in my mouth, ridiculously juicy and tender, smothered in parmesan which is never a bad thing. The sauce was simple which I always prefer with a dish like this. Get the basics right, don’t overcomplicate it and let good ingredients and cooking do the talking.
My friend went for the vegetarian pasta Orecchiette Verde and thought it was just as delicious. Meanwhile we couldn’t help but eye up the other dishes passing by, especially the chicken parm which looked absolutely sensational. If I could try it all I would.
That said, the portions are huge. Even after a 10km walk I was struggling. Grasso does mean fat after all so the clue was in the name but it did feel a little excessive and slightly wasteful. A smaller portion would have been more than enough.
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